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As Pete Wells reflects on his 12 years as a restaurant critic, he laments the changes he has witnessed in the dining world. The introduction of new technologies like restaurant-loyalty apps and touchless payment systems have made the dining experience more efficient but at the cost of the human touch.

Wells recalls a time when restaurants were one of the few places where people could have a completely human experience. In a world dominated by digital interactions and automated processes, dining out was a chance to connect with others in a meaningful way. However, with the rise of apps like Blackbird that allow customers to pay and leave without any interaction with restaurant staff, the personal touch of dining out is disappearing.

The shift towards a more tech-driven dining experience may seem convenient, but Wells argues that it has made meals less personal and our sense of identity less connected to the places we eat. Each small change, like touch screens and reservation apps, may seem insignificant on its own, but together they have transformed the way we experience dining.

As someone who spent years waiting for the check at restaurants, Wells should theoretically welcome any technology that speeds up the payment process. However, he admits that the idea of a checkless exit gives him “the creeps,” highlighting how these changes have eroded the human connection that once defined the dining experience.

In an increasingly digital world, where interactions are mediated through screens and algorithms, the loss of the human touch in restaurants is a poignant reminder of the ways in which technology can shape and change our most basic experiences. As Wells bids farewell to his role as a restaurant critic, he leaves readers with a reflection on the evolution of dining over the past 12 years – a journey that has taken us further away from the simple pleasure of sharing a meal in the company of others.