My colleague, cookbook author Stevan Paul, and I recently cut up a chicken. With each part, the legs and wings, the breast fillets, great individual dishes can be conjured up. For this episode, I chose what remains after disassembling, the carcass. My plan: I want to cook the best broth in the world. In order for this to succeed, I need premium poultry. Colleague Paul swears by the “Label Rouge”: a seal of quality for French chickens that live outdoors all year round; the rearing period is at least 81 days. Their flesh is dark and firm, and the taste is aromatic.

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