An inconspicuous restaurant that I was driven to by hunger gave me the best plate of pasta I’ve had in a long time. Culinary tourist traps are usually lined up in the middle of Rome, in the Centro Storico, on Via dei Coronari. But in one restaurant, the Quelli de’Coronari, there was al dente spaghetti alla chitarra with caramelized yellow pomodorini and crispy fried bacon. Oh my god!
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