It’s extremely hot this afternoon in downtown Munich. On the Eisbach Bridge, a huge crowd of people let the sun burn their necks because what they see in the rushing water under the bridge is too spectacular to escape from the scorching heat: The Eisbach wave is considered the most photographed wave in the world and one of the Places where Munich appears unusually casual.

Munich is almost 500 kilometers from the sea and is a surfing metropolis. Nobody here is surprised that someone rides a bike barefoot with a surfboard under their arm. But the wave is no longer what it once was. More and more feet are forming a queue at its edges – and more and more of them belong to women.

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