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At the end of May, the wine gets to the eyes. Christian Herbst bends down and uses his thumb and forefinger to snap an oval bud (called an “eye” in gardener’s jargon) from a gnarled vine. At this time of year he doesn’t need any new shoots, explains the hobby winemaker. “We don’t want a lot of small grapes, but a few big ones.” Autumn, gray tousled hairstyle, strong forearms that are already brown in spring and a wonderfully buzzing Swabian, lets the bud drop and inspects the next plant. He did something similar almost 40 years ago, maybe even on this very vine. The vineyard on the outskirts of Besigheim is a family heirloom.
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