Graffiti on the concrete walls, red carpet on the floor, a security check at the entrance. You can take the elevator to the fifth section at the push of a button – and then you’re right in the middle of it all: in the Verōnika restaurant in Berlin, which enriches the capital as much as the museum that is part of the concept. The former Tacheles, once a wartime department store ruin on Oranienburger Straße, diagonally opposite the synagogue, is now the Fotografiska Museum, a branch of the Stockholm Photography Authority.
Berlin joins Tallinn and New York City as places where art is lived. From now on, five floors plus a roof terrace will serve as a place for exchanges about art, especially photography – and there is also good food: a café and a bakery have already moved into the ground floor. With the Verōnika the culinary circle closes. That’s good for the city. Because museum gastronomy is finally being taken seriously, not just an attempt to quickly fob off museum visitors.
The museum is housed in the former artists’ studios. There is little that reminds us of the occupied times, but anyone who visits the toilets cannot ignore the listed graffiti. In the center of the restaurant, an oval counter winds its way through the dining area. Shelves filled with glasses and bottles hang from the ceiling. The light is very dim, luckily there are plug-in lamps for the extensive wine list. Otherwise, all you can do is listen to the recommendation of the well-trained service.
If you prefer something more intimate, you can make a reservation in the private dining area. The chairs and seats are covered in velvet and make it difficult to leave quickly; the benches are too cozy. The guests are high-profile and well-off. People still want to be seen here, the Verōnika has become the place to be for Berlin’s chic crowd and international guests.
And how is the food? There are fine products on the menu. There are two ways restaurants deal with this. Either simply write them on the card to create a luxury impression, or create something really good with the high quality products. Tempura oysters, hamachi and scallop don’t disappoint. The lobster omelette has quickly become a signature dish. “You’re going to Verōnika? Make sure you eat the omelet” was what I was told before my first visit. Just as good are the shrimp Milanese, which are coated in batter and served in a spicy tomato sauce with Thai basil – which will have you licking your fingers afterwards.
In terms of price, everything is in the higher segment, but that is justified for the quality of the food. For the average earner, the restaurant is something for special occasions. There is entrecôte, rib-eye steak and tartare. You can follow the cocktail recommendations of the well-trained service staff without further ado; no one will be disappointed here. Finally, it has to be the carrot cake. It’s so incredibly aromatic and creamy that no one would think it was a vegan cake. In general, the dessert menu is a honeypot for those with a sweet tooth: ice cream and sorbets are available in a family-style stainless steel bowl to share. Just like the crème caramel for two, more like four. The motto here is “Sharing is Caring”. Overall, the food is fine and elegant without being complicated.
In short: The Verōnika Restaurant is an enrichment for the gastronomic scene in Berlin – because Berlin is a bit of a cosmopolitan city here.
