Flight Swiss LX 997 lands in Zurich three minutes early. Bright sunshine falls on the runway. On a glass passenger bridge, two cleaners wipe the panes clean. The ATM of the collapsed Credit Suisse in the reception hall ejects CHF 100 without hesitation. Punctual, clean, reliable – welcome to Switzerland. Everything as always. Then why are we here?

Switzerland has been under criticism for weeks. The US ambassador in Bern recently spoke undiplomatically of the biggest crisis in his host country since the Second World War, and the “Financial Times” of global doubts about the stability of the Swiss system – Helvetia as a waddling woman.

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