If I want to go to a Greek restaurant, I pay attention to two things when choosing: Are there images of ancient deities hanging on the walls? And is the mountain of fries so big that the pieces of gyros seem to fall down? Twice no? Then I’m in the right place, for example in the Pinakas restaurant in Hamburg’s Grindelviertel. Here the table bends and your stomach is happy. Everything tastes very good. In particular, the stifado, a meat stew with pearl onions and cinnamon, is so delicious that I ask the chef how he manages it. “Everything with a small flame and a lot of time,” he says. I cook it like this:

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