As a former amateur magician, I know: nothing is more boring than a magic trick that you are explaining. The greatest pleasure is experienced by those who indulge in hocus-pocus without asking too many questions. That’s how I feel when I climb up the Rudolfshöhe from Bad Gastein in the Salzburg region in the summer, up a narrow dirt road. Upstairs I lounge on a sun lounger in the afternoon heat, behind me the more than 600-year-old stone hut and around me all the other utensils that make this place so magical.

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