Nothing better to cool off and water down this first heat wave than these two whites produced by Angiolino Maule.
The small family estate La Biancara (about 9 hectares) is located in Gambellara, in the foothills of Soave in Veneto. It mainly cultivates garganega with a little trebbiano from vines growing on volcanic soils. Everything is done organically (not certified) and biodynamically. No additives and very little sulfur added. Low prices and a high picolability index on all the wines. In other words, it’s the perfect lemonade to beat the heat.
Drink less. Drink better.
La Biancara, Masieri Bianco 2020, Table wine, Italy 21.95 $ – Code SAQ 12846741 – 11% – 1 g / L
The Masieri bianco cuvée is dominated by garganega with a touch of trebbiano, the whole being vinified in stainless steel vats and without contact with the skins. It is clearly a natural wine, but clean and well controlled nature. The wine is not filtered, so you can easily see a veil of lees through the bottle. You can even see a few submarines pass by… Once in the glass, the color is brilliant with a yellow with golden/green reflections. Good aromatic intensity with first aromas of yeast which disappear with aeration to give way to a fairly complex table: citrus, almond, honey, nutmeg and grass. A little beading on the attack that gives way to good body and ripe fruitiness. The acidity in the middle of the mouth brings a certain energy. It’s very dry and light in alcohol. Fairly long with saline flavors. Serve well chilled.
★★★ $$
La Biancara, Sassaia 2020, IGP Veneto, Italie $ 32.00 – Code SAQ 14555285 – 11.5% – 1 g / L
This Sassaia cuvée is made only with garganega. The SAQ website indicates “orange wine”, but we should rather speak of skin maceration wine. Thus, half of the grapes macerate on the skins for a few days, while the other is pressed directly as is done for any white wine. Spontaneous fermentation in large 3000 liter oak barrels. The wine then rests there until bottling in August of the following year, without adding sulphur. Golden yellow robe. Bright and enticing nose of citron, ripe peach, kumquat and dried apricot. On the palate, the wine surprises with its balance between density and freshness, which gives it an airy side. We feel slight bitterness in the finish. The latter stretches for a long time with a saline and salivating side. Again, this is a well-made natural wine. It is also a great way to learn about “orange” wine. Do not serve too cold. It’s only available online at the moment, but should arrive in SAQ stores next week.
★★★ 1⁄2 $$$
★ Correct
★★ Good
★★★ Very good
★★★★ Excellent
★★★★★ Outstanding
More stars than dollars: well worth the price.
As many stars as dollars: worth its price.
Fewer stars than dollars: wine is expensive.
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