As cliché as it may sound, there is no such thing as bad weather. There is only bad, or better: unsuitable, clothing. And that also applies to cycling. Apart from the dangerous lightning ice or a knee-high blanket of snow, there are hardly any good reasons to swap your bike for full buses and trains or the car, even in winter. These days you can even reliably protect yourself against icy temperatures without having to cycle to work like the famous Michelin Man. Wind, rain and darkness are also just sparring partners. Provided you dress smartly. In this article we reveal which pieces you can use to give the cold shoulder to winter and keep yourself warm even when there is frost and swirling flakes.
If you were to start a survey to find out which parts of the body cyclists freeze most often in winter, the fingers and toes would probably be at the top. In addition to the nose (which can only be protected with a multifunctional cloth), the wind automatically cools down the hands and feet first. What makes matters worse is that when temperatures are below zero, the body tends to focus on keeping the internal organs at operating temperature.
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So let’s first focus on protecting your feet from the cold. And that starts with the right cycling socks. They can be cut a little higher and at least partly made from cozy merino wool. If you use your bike every day to get to work, you should also attach importance to sturdy footwear. Sneakers or sneakers made of lightweight mesh material are certainly more comfortable, but they don’t keep out cold or precipitation long-term. So water-repellent Gore material is the minimum that cycling shoes should have in winter. The Minaki Mid II STX from Vaude has a flexible shaft that also protects against splash water. If you want to do a short training session before going to the office, you can also screw cleats under your shoe and pedal using the STX or SPD system.
If your toes are still cold despite Merino socks and Gore cycling shoes, you can use the third level. So-called overshoes are – quite surprisingly – placed over the shoes from the toe and protect equally against wind, cold and moisture. To reach your destination with dry feet, overshoes are always a good choice. A slightly more flexible alternative is this waterproof oversock from Sealskinz, which also has a little extra safety on board thanks to the reflective material. If you just want to protect your toes from the wind and cold, so-called toe caps are a good option. They are only pulled over the toes of the feet and reach approximately to the instep.
When cycling, your legs are constantly in motion. Nevertheless, they should also be adequately packed in winter. If there is no chance of changing at work, lined and waterproof trousers that can be pulled over jeans or trousers are a good idea. If you want to be a little more sporty and want to incorporate the trip to the office into your day as a little workout and be able to change in the office, it’s better to choose lined cycling shorts with a thin seat padding. Whether with or without straps is a matter of taste. Tip: Short cycling shorts can be transformed into a winter version in no time with leg warmers. These practical overcoats are available lined (here a thermal model from Gonso) and unlined (here a model from Gore).
Of course, it’s not enough to just be wrapped up warm underneath. The body gives off most of its heat through the upper body and especially the head. And that’s exactly what you should limit at least as much as possible in winter. The so-called onion skin principle has proven its worth. This is not only intended to ward off the cold, but also to ensure that excess body heat can be reliably dissipated. The rule of thumb applies: it is better to have a few thin layers on top of each other than one very thick one.
The basis for this is the base layer, i.e. functional underwear that is worn directly on the skin. Their job is to absorb moisture, i.e. sweat. And this is important not only when skiing in the mountains, but also when cycling in winter. Not only, but especially when things get a little quicker. Minor drawback: High-quality functional underwear (e.g. from Odlo) doesn’t always look chic. But she doesn’t have to. Advantage of the base layer: It dries quickly. In our latitudes, a short or long-sleeved shirt (e.g. from Odlo or Gore) is usually sufficient for the base layer.
The next layer, the so-called midlayer, is supposed to provide the necessary warmth. For cyclists, this is usually a short or long cycling jersey, depending on the season and temperature. In winter, slightly brushed models or, better yet, cycling jackets are ideal. For everyday rides, the best midlayer option is a warming fleece jacket (e.g. this women’s model from Quechua). If necessary, the winter bike outfit is completed by the Outer Shell. This is intended to ward off wind or moisture so that the midlayer stays cozy and warm and dry. Softshell jackets (like the Qimsa from Vaude) are not just the name of the classic for the weatherproof third layer of clothing.
Less specific to cycling, but essential for winter cycling are hats, scarves and gloves. The most important requirement for headgear is that it must fit comfortably under a helmet. Bobble hats are therefore rather unsuitable at this point. In order to be able to react to different temperatures, it makes sense to have two types of hats in your closet. For milder winter days around five degrees, a thin, functional hat that is as breathable as possible (like this model from Craft) is sufficient. An alternative is the popular Buff, a multifunctional scarf (here the Merino version) that can be transformed from a tube scarf into a practical hat with just a few clever moves.
If you get on your bike in temperatures around or below freezing, your forehead and ears should be protected with a thicker hat, the inside of which is ideally made of fleece. Our tip: the Reflect360 Fleece Beanie from Proviz. Fabric threads were sewn onto the outside, which reflect the light particularly well. This makes you very easy to see, especially for drivers, even in the morning and at dusk. Thanks to its tight fit, the helmet also sits securely on your head.
If you forget your gloves on a Sunday walk, simply put your cold hands in your jacket pocket. When it comes to cycling, it’s not that easy. Cold hands are not only uncomfortable on the bike, they also make it difficult to pull the brake levers in a targeted manner. In winter, gloves are therefore part of every cyclist’s basic equipment. And because the feeling of cold on the fingers is also very subjective, there is no patent recipe for warm hands. However, heated cycling gloves (e.g. from Sealskinz) can help. They are already a little thicker by default. There is also a battery in a small pocket on the wrist that supplies energy to the heating surfaces inside the glove. Most models have three heat settings that can be selected using buttons on the top of the glove.
If high-tech gloves aren’t a must, you’ll probably be happy with lightly lined models like the Triban F900 from Decathlon. They are supposed to keep your fingers warm even at temperatures around zero degrees. Advantage of the slightly thinner version: Grip and feel on the handlebars and brake levers are generally significantly better. They also save the budget.
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